A day in the beautiful town of Tournon on the Rhône river reveals tales of great sorrow and ends in tears of laughter.
We wake at 6am to a beautiful brisk morning as our ship continues its overnight journey south along the Saône river from Mâcon to Tournon on the Rhône river.
Passing through one of many lochs on the way to Tournon.
The fresh air through our open cabin window and the new landscape either side now on the Rhône inspire us to get up and enjoy the day over an early morning cup of tea.
The Captain guiding us in to moor at Tournon.
As we arrive in Tournon around 9am we see workers picking grapes on the terraced vineyard hillside and we later hear that harvest time has arrived early because of the hot summer. Our guide tells us the lead picker is known as Santa Claus due to the big bucket on his back that looks like a sack from a distance.
Early harvest this year due to the dry hot summer.
Tournon is in the district of Ardeche, the only county with no airport or train station. On the other side of the river opposite the town is the much more affluent town of Tain L’Hermitage where Hermitage wine is produced, one of most prestigious appellations. Our guide said there is rivalry between the two towns and the Tournon residents are regarded as bare foot and unwashed because “we are green”.
We begin in the large square of Tournon alongside the river where many public events are held such as pétanque competitions and last week was the annual onion fair which has been held for more 500 years.
The elegant square at Tournon, site of many events.
There are several theories as to the origin of the name of Tournon – it may mean the town turns around the castle or that the town is surrounded by towers. Our guide tells us two tales of woe linked to the town and the Chateau de Tournon.
The first I haven’t been able to verify, but it makes a good story. A young girl born in the 16th century to a noble family living at the Chateau de Tournon complains she is bored with life there. Her mother suggests the 15 year old Helène goes with her newly married sister to Burgundy where she falls in love with the younger brother of her sister’s husband. Helène was sent back home as the parents of the young man wouldn’t allow him to be married because as the second son he was destined for the church. Helène later went to Paris with the French Queen Margot and on the way was joyous at seeing her love was now a handsome knight. He didn’t recognise her so heartbroken she refused all food and drink and three days later “died of love”. Queen Margot included this story in her journals and it is said Shakespeare used Helène as inspiration for his tragic character of Ophelia in Hamlet.
The second tale is told whilst we are visiting the Église Saint-Julien, going inside to admire the delicate 14th century frescoes in the chapel. A young Prince, the son of King Francois I of France, died at the Chateau in 1536 after suspected poisoning from a glass of water. The Prince was buried at the church for eleven years while the King was away fighting.
The chapel of Église Saint-Julien.
After these sad stories we continue our walk through the town where we can see remaining ruins of rampants on the hillside. Tournon used to have thirteen towers, now there are just two.
Walking down narrow streets lined with tall ancient houses we are directed to the rooftops. Under the roof of some of the homes we see there are different number of layered tiles. These were an indication of a person’s rank in society, with three or more rows for aristocrats, two for craftsmen and one row for lower ranks.
The four rows of tiles underneath the roof indicates a person of high rank lived here.
School is back this week but not for some students who we see sitting in groups smoking outside the Tournon high school, Lycée Gabriel-Fairey, the oldest school for teenagers in France outside Paris built in 1536 by a cardinal.
A very elegant high school, the second oldest in France after the Sorbonne.
Walking back to the Rhône we arrive at an impressive suspension cable bridge, the first of its kind in the world designed by Tournon’s Marc Seguin. Seguin had a long engineering career and also made an impact on the local population, fathering nineteen children.
We have beautiful views up and down the Rhône and the hills covered in vineyards as we cross the bridge to the town Tain l’Hermitage. This morning we are on a mission to visit the historic Valrhôna chocolate factory.
We have to drag ourselves away before we make ourselves sick with all the chocolate tastings available.
After a barbecue lunch on the upper deck of the Emerald Liberté we return to Tain l’Hermitage and take Le Petite Train for a ride through the town and up the hillside vineyards.
Workers are picking the lush white and red grapes. There are spectacular views of the town below and the Rhône river.
A young Charles V and Jeanne of Bourbon at Tain l’Hermitage.
An engineering feat.
Back at our ship we are in time for afternoon tea, and for those still hungry, a cheese tasting before dinner. Later we are in for a treat with the crew of Emerald Liberté putting on a review show for us all. There are some talented performers, particularly a Manuele (Fawlty Towers) style waiter who has everyone in stitches.
A Fawlty Towers style of skit was performed with hilarity by the crew.